Meet the Women Nourishing New Orleans’ Food Culture
A new generation of chefs—Melissa M. Martin, Nina Compton, and Ana Castro—are building community, tradition, and a sense of belonging in their kitchens
In the second half of the twentieth century, two iconic restaurateurs, Leah Chase and Ella Brennan, redefined dining in New Orleans. Dooky Chase, run by Chase and her family, was radically welcoming, while Brennan’s Commander’s Palace was wildly celebratory. Both restaurants still make each diner feel like family: At Commander’s Palace, a birthday boy can expect balloons and a serenade from the band at brunch. At Dooky Chase, you might get fussed at for adding salt to your bowl of gumbo without tasting it first. Since the passing of these matriarchs, a new generation of women has taken up that mantle, helming restaurants that expand the idea of home.
GARDEN AND GUN | February/March 2025